How To Make Noise Insulation Of Doors On A VAZ

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How To Make Noise Insulation Of Doors On A VAZ
How To Make Noise Insulation Of Doors On A VAZ

Video: How To Make Noise Insulation Of Doors On A VAZ

Video: How To Make Noise Insulation Of Doors On A VAZ
Video: Noise isolation doors VAZ 2114 level Norma. AutoShum. 2024, December
Anonim

Soundproofing of VAZ cars has always been in demand - the cars produced in Togliatti do not have good sound-absorbing upholstery. And if earlier the choice of materials for such purposes was small, today manufacturers offer a lot of noise-insulating sheets, panels, rolls, etc. The main thing is to make the right choice of sound insulators and install them correctly.

How to make noise insulation of doors on a VAZ
How to make noise insulation of doors on a VAZ

It should be noted right away that sound insulation of doors alone will not lead to the desired result - the effect of noise absorption will be minimal or completely invisible. The desired result can be achieved only when carrying out work on the entire body of the car. However, door sound insulation is also an important step in improving vehicle comfort.

Primary door sound insulation

General technologies for installing noise-insulating material are similar in almost all VAZ cars. The only differences are in the features of disassembly, assembly of the upholstery and in the number of technological holes. But in any case, you first need to disassemble the door trim. When there is only "bare" iron left, it is necessary to carry out treatment with a strong solvent to degrease the surface (acetone, white spirit, 650th, 648th, etc. solvent will do). If there is a treatment with an anti-corrosion compound, then it should not be touched.

Primary soundproofing consists of installing vibration damping material (eg STP). To do this, you need to cut out sheets that are suitable in size, heat the lower, bituminous side with a hairdryer and, applying it to the metal, roll it out with a roller. After making sure that the sheet is well fixed, take the next piece and fasten it in the same way, with an overlap.

The second insulation layer is a sound absorbing material. You can use, for example, Shumoff, Accent, Spleen. The latter type of material also has thermal insulation qualities. Usually these materials have a self-adhesive base on one side, so there will be fewer problems with fastening. Here you also need to cut the roll or sheets into the largest possible pieces.

Technological holes and last layers of sound insulation

The sealing of the technological holes increases the effect of sound insulation. However, when repairing (replacing), for example, power windows, door handles, you will have to cut holes. In addition, if your model provides for interior ventilation through the doors, then gluing the holes will stop air circulation.

If, nevertheless, you decide to close the technological holes, then you can stick another layer of sound insulation - although, most likely, this will already be an overkill; it is more expedient to pay more attention to the door upholstery. To do this, make the upholstery heavier with a layer of vibration isolator - it will vibrate less and make all sorts of creaks. Next, glue the bitoplast layer, which "repeats" any shape well. At the last stage, you can apply modelin, a material that eliminates squeaks between rubbing parts (wiring, door handles, etc.). In order not to doubt the quality of work, finally install additional door seals.

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