At the mention of replacing the clutch, drivers begin to puzzle over how best to proceed. Not everyone can go to the service station and give money to the master. And self-replacement is possible only if there is a pit, lift or overpass. But not everyone has them. Although the clutch can be replaced without completely removing the box.
Necessary
- - safety supports;
- - wheel chocks;
- - keys set;
- - chisel;
- - a hammer;
- - jack;
- - scrap;
- - capacity 5 liters.
Instructions
Step 1
Place stops under the rear wheels, because the front of the machine will have to be lifted. Loosen the wheel bolts first, then lift up the left side. The front wheels must be at least 10 centimeters above the ground. Place a support under the left side, if not, then wooden stumps will do. Do not place bricks or blocks only under the car, as they can easily collapse under the weight of the car. Lift the right side and support the vehicle.
Step 2
Remove the wheels and open the hood. Now you need to disconnect the battery and remove it so that it does not interfere. Remove the air filter to get to the starter. Now unscrew the three nuts securing the starter using a key of 13. You can disconnect the wires from the starter and remove them from the car, or you can not disconnect them by simply putting it to the side. But the first option will be more convenient. Now disconnect the earth wire from the transmission.
Step 3
Remove the engine protection and sit more comfortably under the vehicle. Disconnect the speed switch actuator with a 13 wrench. Place supports under the gearbox and engine, as the next step is to remove the pillows. There are two of them on the box, both must be dismantled. At the same time, you can unscrew the lower bolt securing the gearbox to the engine and the nut on the side, from the passenger compartment. It is most convenient to use a 19 socket wrench. After that, use a 10 wrench to remove the flywheel protection.
Step 4
Remove the pins from the steering rods, unscrew the nuts. Using a puller for the steering ends, disconnect them from the struts. Also unscrew two bolts on the ball joints. As a result, the racks should move freely on the drives. Now drain the oil from the box. There is no need to drain everything, it is enough to leave 1/3 of the total volume. You will have to remove the right CV JOINT, so oil may spill out. Using a crowbar or a hammer and chisel, remove the inner CV joint on the right side.
Step 5
Unscrew one by one the two upper bolts securing the box to the engine block. Instead, you need to install bolts with the same thread, only 3-4 times longer. The lower arm bolts used on the classic are ideal. Now all that remains is to rip off the box and move it towards the left wheel. Moreover, the checkpoint will not fall on its side, but will lie on the transverse thrust. A considerable gap is formed between the engine and the box, through which the disc, basket, bearing can be easily changed.
Step 6
Remove the bolts securing the basket to the flywheel. It is more convenient to do this on the box moved to the engine through the hole for the starter. It is desirable to use only a key with a socket with a cardan. By turning the flywheel, you get rid of all the bolts. When the basket falls on the shaft, you need to move the box to the side. Take out the disc through the hole, then the box. Run your hand a little deeper and take the release bearing. Install a new one immediately instead.
Step 7
Place the disc, and on top of it the basket, on the flywheel. Make sure the bolt holes match. Install a couple of bolts, then slide the box towards the engine. The input shaft must enter the hole on the clutch disc, so the latter will have to be guided through the hole with a screwdriver in the desired direction. Only after the input shaft has entered the disc can the clutch basket tighten. This is done through the starter hole. And then the assembly of the car begins in the reverse order.
