Failure of VAZ hydraulic lifters is a fairly common reason for engine repairs. This malfunction is difficult to confuse with anything else (enter the query "How VAZ hydraulic lifters knock" in the YouTube search bar and watch the video). The clatter of hydraulic lifters resembles a resounding metal chirp. When the hydraulic lifter is completely out of order, its knocking becomes like hitting with a hammer inside the engine. If you are not sure of the true reasons for the strange sounds from the engine compartment, diagnose it. Start the engine, open the hood and unscrew the oil filler cap. If the knocking has become louder and is clearly heard from the oil filler neck, then your car is most likely faulty hydraulic lifters.
Necessary
- - Phillips screwdriver;
- - pliers;
- - slotted screwdriver;
- - head on "13";
- - head on "10";
- - scissors;
- - knife;
- - rags;
- - head to "8";
- - hexagon to "5";
- - spanner key for "17";
- - "Torx T-30" key;
- - key for "10";
- - head on "17";
- - spanner wrench or head on "15";
- - suction cup.
Instructions
Step 1
Keep in mind that if you have never changed hydraulic lifters before, then it is better to seek help from qualified technicians in a car service or, in extreme cases, do this work under the supervision of a person who understands VAZ engines. Mistakes that you can make during self-repair can damage the valves and camshafts of the engine and their premature failure.
Step 2
You will familiarize yourself with the procedure for replacing hydraulic lifters using the example of a VAZ-2170 (Priora) car with an engine 1, 6i 16 valves.
Step 3
Remove the plastic engine cover. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the clamp of the hose of the main crankcase ventilation circuit and remove the hose from the fitting of the cylinder head cover (cylinder head). Disconnect the lead from the negative battery terminal.
Step 4
Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamp and remove the hose from the cylinder head cover nipple. Next, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the guide tube of the oil level indicator to the inlet pipeline and lift up the tube with the oil level indicator.
Step 5
Take the pliers and with their help loosen the tightening of the band clamp securing the hose of the vacuum brake booster and remove the hose from the inlet pipe. Then take a slotted screwdriver and pry the spring lock of the throttle cable with it and remove it from the throttle actuator sector. Pull the throttle cable out of the bracket on the intake manifold. Overcoming the force of the spring, turn the throttle valve actuator sector and remove the cable tip from the sector hole. Now pull the throttle cable out of the holders on the intake manifold.
Step 6
Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the throttle assembly to the inlet pipeline and remove the throttle assembly from the pipeline studs without disconnecting the coolant supply and return hoses from the throttle assembly. Press the latch with your fingers and disconnect the wires from the ignition coils. Move the wires away from the cylinder head.
Step 7
Take the head on "10" and with its help unscrew the two nuts of the upper fastening of the intake manifold to the cylinder head cover. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts and three nuts of the lower mounting of the intake manifold. Unbutton or cut with scissors (knife) the two clamps securing the wiring harness to the upper timing belt cover.
Step 8
Press the latch and disconnect the wires from the phase sensor. Then with the head on "10" unscrew the bolt of the ignition coil and remove it. Repeat the same operation for three more ignition coils. Close the holes for the ignition coils in the cylinder head cover with a rag. Slide the intake manifold forward, with the direction of the vehicle, and remove it.
Step 9
Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the clamp of the idle air hose and remove the hose from the cylinder head cover fitting. Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for the wiring harness of the engine management system and move the bracket with the wires away from the cylinder head cover.
Step 10
Use pliers to squeeze the tabs of the plastic holder for the wiring harness of the engine management system and pull the holder out of the bracket attached to the cylinder head cover.
Step 11
With the head on "8", unscrew the fifteen bolts securing the cylinder head cover. Since the cover is installed on the sealant, then, picking it up with a slotted screwdriver by the bush, remove it.
Step 12
Check hydraulic lifters for serviceability. To do this, press the hydraulic lifter with a screwdriver. In a normal state, the hydraulic lifter should move in the cylinder head seat with considerable force, compressing the valve spring. If, with a little effort, the hydraulic compensator itself is squeezed, then it must be replaced.
Step 13
At this stage it is necessary to remove the camshafts. Start with the camshaft pulleys. Using the hex key "5", unscrew the five screws securing the front upper timing cover (timing) and remove it. Using the "10" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the phase sensor and remove the sensor from the hole in the rear timing case cover.
Step 14
Using a "17" spanner wrench, loosen the inlet camshaft pulley mounting bolt, holding the pulley against turning with a large screwdriver blade. Loosen the bolt of the exhaust camshaft toothed pulley in the same way.
Step 15
Now you need to remove the right mudguard in the engine compartment. Unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the flap to the wheel arch liner with a Phillips screwdriver. Take the "Torx T-30" wrench and use it to unscrew the two self-tapping screws securing the guard to the body and two self-tapping screws to attach the guard to the mudguard of the power unit. Remove the right mudguard.
Step 16
Unscrew the two screws securing the front lower timing cover with a hexagon "5" and remove it. Take the key "10" and loosen the nut fastening the generator to the upper bracket. Turning with a key "10" the adjusting bolt counterclockwise, reduce the tension of the alternator belt. Slide the alternator towards the cylinder block and remove the belt from the alternator pulleys and crankshaft.
Step 17
In order not to disrupt the valve timing when removing the timing belt, set the crankshaft and camshafts to the top dead center of the compression stroke of the first cylinder. To do this, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley until the marks on the camshaft pulleys are aligned with the marks on the rear timing cover.
Step 18
Remove the rubber plug from the top of the transmission clutch housing and make sure the mark on the flywheel is opposite the slot in the upper clutch housing. Ask the assistant to fix the flywheel by inserting a slotted screwdriver with a large blade between its teeth, and unscrew the bolt securing the alternator pulley with the head on "17". Remove the alternator pulley together with the support washer.
Step 19
Using a spanner wrench or a "15" head, loosen the timing belt tension roller bolt. As soon as the belt tension is released, remove the timing belt.
Step 20
Using a "17" spanner wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the toothed pulleys of the intake and exhaust camshafts to the end and remove the pulleys from the toes of the camshafts. Disconnect the wires from the engine oil pressure warning switch.
21
Using the head on "8", unscrew the twenty bolts securing the camshaft bearing housing and remove it. Using the "10" head, unscrew the three upper bolts securing the rear timing cover. Pressing the rear timing cover away from the camshafts, pull out the camshaft assembly with oil seals.
22
Remove the two cylinder head plugs and camshaft bearing housings. Wipe the ends of the hydraulic lifters with a rag. Pull the hydraulic pushers (16 pieces) out of the cylinder head seat using a suction cup (for example, a suction cup used to attach the radar detector to the windshield). Install new hydraulic lifters in reverse order.
