Almost in case of any malfunctions of the starter, it has to be removed, because it is located under the engine and has limited access. Also, for repair and maintenance, the starter must be disassembled, and this is impossible without removing it from the engine.
Removing the starter on the "classic" presents certain difficulties due to its inconvenient location. The easiest way to shoot is "through the bottom", on a lift or a viewing hole, because it is more convenient to unscrew the fastening screws and remove the starter from the bottom.
Preparatory work
To remove the starter, you will need 13 wrenches, a 10 or 12 wrench to unscrew the battery terminals, a 13 socket, a socket wrench with a long T-shaped handle and a cardan.
The car is installed on an inspection pit or lift. When working in the inspection pit, the car must be applied to the parking brake and wheel chocks must be placed under the rear wheels.
Next, you need to disconnect the terminals and remove the battery from the car. For more convenient access to the starter, the air filter housing is also removed from the carburetor. The carburetor air ducts must be covered with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Removing the starter
Using a 13 wrench, unscrew the three nuts and first remove the hot air pipe, and then, by unscrewing the bottom bolt with a 10 socket wrench, remove the starter shield located in the lower part of the engine compartment directly above the starter. On VAZ - 2107 cars with an injection engine, the mudguard is additionally removed.
Next, from the bottom of the car with a socket head 13 with a wrench with a long handle and a universal joint, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the starter to the clutch housing. On the injection engine, the upper bolt additionally secures the intake fuel line brace, and the middle bolt holds the oxygen sensor wiring harness bracket. Pull the starter forward out of the seat.
On a carburetor engine, it is necessary to remove the air filter housing together with the warm air intake pipe, and on the injection engine, two stretch marks holding the intake pipe.
Then, using a 13 key on the starter solenoid relay, unscrew the nut of the terminal of the positive power wire coming from the battery. Also remove the tip of the control wire that pulls in the relay.
Now you can remove the starter by lowering it towards the bulkhead of the engine compartment, or over the top, which is more problematic, because "Pants" - the pipes of the engine exhaust manifold strongly interfere.
When installing the starter after repair or replacement, usually the lowest starter bolt is not screwed into place. This makes it possible to later remove the unit "through the top", without a pit or a lift, by unscrewing the two remaining bolts with a conventional open-end wrench 13.
